Planting Garlic in Australia: The Complete Guide

Why Grow Your Own Garlic?

Almost all garlic sold in Australian supermarkets is imported from China and has often been treated to prevent sprouting. It bears no comparison to freshly harvested, properly cured homegrown garlic — which is far more pungent, aromatic, and flavourful. Growing garlic is simple, the plants require minimal attention, and a single clove planted in autumn becomes a full bulb by summer.

Timing

Garlic needs a cold period (vernalisation) to develop good bulbs, which is why it is planted in autumn and winter rather than spring. In cool climates (Melbourne, Canberra, Tasmania, Southern Victoria and NSW): plant March through May for the best results. In temperate climates (Sydney, Adelaide, Perth): plant April through June. In subtropical Queensland: plant July through August only — garlic needs the coldest months of the year. In tropical regions garlic is very difficult to grow without refrigeration pre-treatment of cloves.

Choosing Your Variety

Softneck varieties (no stiff central stem) are the most adaptable across different Australian climates and store the longest. Australian Purple, Printanor, and Italian Pink are reliable softneck varieties with excellent flavour. Hardneck varieties produce a central flowering stem (the scape — edible and delicious) and are generally considered more complex in flavour, but require colder winters and store for a shorter period. Monaro Purple and Music are outstanding hardneck varieties for cool climates.

Planting

Separate bulbs into individual cloves immediately before planting — do not do this in advance as exposed cloves dry out. Choose only the largest, most perfect cloves for planting (save the smaller ones for cooking) — clove size is directly related to the size of the bulb at harvest. Plant cloves pointed end up, 3–5 cm deep, 15–20 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart. Firm soil over them and water in. A layer of straw mulch helps maintain moisture and suppress weeds.

Care and Harvesting

Garlic needs very little care. Water regularly through winter and spring, reducing in early summer as bulbs approach maturity. Harvest scapes (the curling central stem of hardneck varieties) when they have completed one full curl — this redirects energy from flowering into bulb development. Harvest bulbs when the lower 3–4 leaves have died back but the upper 4–5 are still green — usually November to January depending on variety and location. Leave too long and bulbs will separate and not store well.

Curing and Storing

Cure harvested garlic in a warm, airy, shaded location for 3–6 weeks until the outer skins are completely dry and papery and the stems are fully dry. Do not cure in direct sun — this can bleach and damage the bulbs. Once fully cured, store in a mesh bag or plaited (softneck varieties only) in a cool, dry location with good air circulation. Well-cured softneck garlic stores for 6–10 months.

Choosing Your Garlic Varieties for Australian Regions

Australia's diverse climate zones mean garlic success depends largely on selecting varieties suited to your region. The two main types are hardneck and softneck garlic, each with distinct advantages.

Hardneck varieties produce a flowering stem (scape) and are ideal for cooler Australian regions including Tasmania, Victoria, and the mountains of New South Wales. Popular hardneck cultivars include German Extra Hardy, Spanish Roja, and Carpathian. These varieties develop larger, more intensely flavoured cloves and store reasonably well for 4–6 months. The edible garlic scapes, harvested in late spring, make a delicious addition to stir-fries and pestos.

Softneck varieties lack the central flowering stem and are better suited to warmer regions, particularly Queensland, Western Australia, and coastal New South Wales. Egyptian Walking, Polish Jailhouse, and Silverskin are popular softneck choices that store exceptionally well—up to eight months—making them ideal if you want year-round supply. They're also easier to braid for decorative storage.

If you're unsure which variety suits your location, contact your local agricultural extension service or visit a farmers' market in autumn to ask neighbouring growers what thrives in your specific microclimate. Many Australian seed companies now stock locally-proven varieties selected for regional performance.

Soil Preparation and Planting Technique

Garlic is not demanding, but it does reward proper soil preparation with noticeably larger bulbs and better disease resistance. Begin organising your garlic bed at least four weeks before your planned planting date.

Soil requirements: Garlic prefers well-draining soil rich in organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay, incorporate 5–7 centimetres of compost or aged manure into the top 20 centimetres of soil. Garlic is prone to rot in waterlogged conditions, so raised beds work particularly well in areas with high winter rainfall. The ideal soil pH is 6.0–7.0; if your soil is acidic, add lime several weeks before planting to allow time for adjustment.

Fertilising: Garlic is a moderate feeder. Work in a balanced organic fertiliser (such as blood and bone or a commercial organic blend) at planting time. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, which encourage leafy growth at the expense of bulb development. In spring (September–November), apply a light side-dressing of nitrogen fertiliser once leaves are well-established.

Planting technique: Separate garlic bulbs into individual cloves just before planting—don't store them beforehand as they dry out. Select large, healthy cloves from the outer ring of the bulb; discard small or damaged cloves. Plant each clove pointed-end-up, pushing it into the soil so the tip is just covered.