Reliable spring bulb with cheerful yellow flowers. Naturalises readily and multiplies over years....
In Australian gardens, daffodils are occasionally affected by narcissus bulb fly, whose larvae tunnel into bulbs and cause soft, rotten patches — check bulbs at lifting time and destroy any infested ones immediately. Basal rot caused by Fusarium fungi can develop in poorly drained soils; ensure excellent drainage and avoid overwatering to prevent this issue. Snails and slugs may damage emerging shoots, particularly in wetter regions, and can be managed organically using iron-based baits or copper tape barriers around garden beds.
Apply a complete bulb fertiliser or a balanced slow-release granular fertiliser (such as one with equal NPK ratios) at planting time in autumn, then top-dress again with a low-nitrogen, high-potassium feed like a liquid potash solution as flower buds emerge in late winter. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which encourages lush foliage but reduces flowering performance in subsequent seasons.
Never cut back daffodil foliage until it has turned completely yellow and withered naturally, as the leaves are essential for photosynthesising energy back into the bulb for next year's blooms. Deadhead spent flowers promptly after blooming to prevent the plant from directing energy into seed production, but leave all green stems and leaves intact.
Daffodils are most easily propagated by lifting and dividing established clumps every three to five years, separating the offsets (smaller bulblets attached to the main bulb) and replanting them individually at the correct depth in freshly prepared soil during autumn. Division not only increases your stock of plants but also reinvigorates overcrowded clumps that have begun to produce fewer flowers, restoring their vigour and floral display within one to two seasons.
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