The most fragrant cool-season annual climber. Extraordinary range of colours. Must be grown from seed....
Aphids are the most common pest affecting sweet peas in Australian gardens, clustering on new growth and flower buds — blast them off with a strong jet of water or spray with a diluted neem oil solution weekly. Powdery mildew frequently appears in humid or poorly ventilated conditions, particularly in late spring; improve airflow around plants and apply a diluted milk spray (one part milk to nine parts water) as an effective organic control. Snails and slugs can devastate young seedlings, so apply iron-based snail pellets or set beer traps around the base of plants during establishment.
Apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser at planting time, then switch to a liquid potassium-rich fertiliser such as liquid potash or seasol plus every two weeks once flower buds begin to form, which encourages abundant blooming rather than excess leafy growth. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers during the flowering phase as they promote foliage at the expense of the flowers sweet peas are grown for.
Pinch out the growing tips of young plants when they reach 10–15 centimetres tall to encourage multiple lateral stems and a bushier, more productive plant structure. Train new growth onto the trellis or support weekly by gently guiding tendrils, and remove any dead or yellowing foliage promptly to maintain good airflow and reduce disease pressure.
Sweet peas are propagated exclusively from seed, sown directly into the garden or into deep tubes or toilet roll inners to accommodate their long taproots, which resent disturbance at transplanting time. For best results, soak seeds overnight before sowing, or lightly scarify the hard outer coat with fine sandpaper to improve germination rates, which typically occur within 10–14 days under cool Australian autumn conditions.
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