Garlic — How to Grow Garlic in Australia

☀️ Sun

Full Sun

💧 Water

Low

↔ Spacing

15cm apart

↕ Height

Up to 60cm

📅 Harvest

240 days

Growing Guide

Plant garlic in Australia during autumn (March to May) for the best results, as the cool temperatures trigger strong bulb development. In subtropical regions, aim for June to July planting to capture the coolest part of the year.

1. Soil Preparation: Choose a sunny, well-drained bed and work in aged compost or well-rotted manure to a depth of 20–30 cm. Garlic dislikes waterlogged soil, so raised beds or mounded rows are ideal. Aim for a soil pH of 6.0–7.0.

2. Planting: Break a bulb into individual cloves and plant pointy end up, 5 cm deep and 15 cm apart, with rows spaced 30 cm apart. Select large, healthy cloves from certified Australian seed garlic for the best yields.

3. Watering: Water regularly after planting to establish roots, then reduce frequency. Garlic prefers consistent moisture during leaf development but dislikes soggy conditions. Taper watering off entirely in the final 2–3 weeks before harvest.

4. Feeding: Apply a balanced fertiliser at planting, then a nitrogen-rich feed in late winter to boost leafy growth.

5. Harvesting: Harvest in late spring to early summer (November–December) when the lower leaves turn yellow and dry. Lift bulbs gently with a fork, shake off soil, and cure in a warm, airy, shaded spot for 2–4 weeks before storing.

🤝 Good Companions

Garlic grows exceptionally well alongside roses tomatoes and brassicas such as broccoli and cabbage as its sulphur compounds naturally repel aphids whitefly and cabbage moths. Planting chamomile nearby is also believed to enhance garlic's flavour and improve overall bed health.

❌ Avoid Planting With

Avoid planting garlic near other alliums such as onions leeks or chives as they compete for the same nutrients and share susceptibility to pests and diseases like onion fly and white rot. Legumes including peas and beans should also be kept well away as garlic inhibits their nitrogen-fixing root bacteria.

🐛 Pests & Diseases

In Australian gardens, garlic is most commonly affected by onion thrips, which cause silvery streaking on leaves and can be controlled by blasting plants with water and applying neem oil spray. White rot (Sclerotium cepivorum) is a serious fungal issue in wet, cool soils — prevent it by avoiding overwatering, rotating crops every 3–4 years, and never replanting alliums in affected soil. Rust fungus can appear in humid conditions and is best managed by improving air circulation, removing affected foliage promptly, and applying a certified organic copper-based fungicide.

🌱 Fertilising

At planting time, incorporate a complete organic fertiliser or pelletised chicken manure into the soil to support root and clove development. Follow up with a liquid seaweed and fish emulsion feed every 3–4 weeks during active leaf growth through winter and early spring to encourage robust bulb formation.

✂️ Pruning & Training

If growing hardneck garlic varieties, remove the curling flower scape when it forms in spring by cutting it at the base — this redirects the plant's energy into producing larger bulbs rather than flowers and seeds. Softneck varieties rarely require any pruning, though yellowing or damaged outer leaves can be gently removed to improve airflow around the plant.

🔬 Propagation

Garlic is propagated exclusively by planting individual cloves rather than true seed, as commercially available garlic rarely sets viable seed. For best results, save the largest, healthiest cloves from your own cured harvest each year to replant, selecting for locally adapted stock that will improve in vigour and flavour with each successive Australian-grown generation.

🗓 When to Plant

Autumn

🌾 Harvest

Summer

🌏 Australian Climates

Temperate Cool Temperate Mediterranean Subtropical

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