Iconic aromatic shrub. Loves full sun and excellent drainage. Clip hard after flowering each year to prevent woodiness....
Lavender is generally robust in Australian gardens, but root rot caused by Phytophthora fungus is the most serious threat, typically triggered by poor drainage or overwatering — improve soil structure and reduce irrigation as the primary organic remedy. Lavender can occasionally attract spittlebugs and aphids, which can be controlled with a strong jet of water or a spray of diluted neem oil. Grey mould (Botrytis) may appear in humid coastal regions during wet seasons; improve airflow by spacing plants adequately and pruning after flowering.
Apply a light top-dressing of low-phosphorus, slow-release granular fertiliser (such as a native or low-P blend) once in early spring to support the new season's growth and flowering. Avoid over-fertilising — excess nutrients, particularly nitrogen, reduce the essential oil content, weaken fragrance, and cause floppy, disease-prone growth in Australian conditions.
Prune lavender twice yearly in Australia — once lightly after the first spring flush fades, and again more firmly in late summer or early autumn (March) to shape the plant and remove spent flower spikes. Always cut back into the green leafy growth and never prune into old bare wood, as lavender will not regenerate from leafless stems.
Lavender is most reliably propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late summer to early autumn — select 8–10 cm non-flowering shoots, strip the lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and insert into a free-draining propagating mix of perlite and coarse sand. Seed propagation is possible but slow and variable in quality, so cuttings are strongly preferred for maintaining the characteristics of named cultivars.
Get our seasonal planting guide — know exactly what to grow each month.
Get unlimited AI gardening help, plant identification from photos, and advice tailored to your Australian climate zone.
Upgrade to Premium — $10/mo