Heat-loving fruiting plant with varieties ranging from mild to extreme. More drought-tolerant than capsicum....
Common pests affecting Australian chilli plants include aphids, whitefly, spider mites, and Queensland fruit fly in warmer states, while fungal diseases such as Phytophthora root rot and powdery mildew can strike in humid or poorly drained conditions. Control aphids and whitefly organically by spraying with diluted neem oil or a homemade garlic and chilli spray, and introduce beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybirds. Improve air circulation between plants, avoid overhead watering, and treat fungal issues promptly with a bicarbonate of soda solution or copper-based organic fungicide.
At planting, incorporate a balanced slow-release fertiliser or well-aged compost into the soil, then switch to a potassium-rich liquid fertiliser such as liquid potash or a tomato-specific feed every 3–4 weeks once flowering commences to support robust fruiting. Avoid over-applying nitrogen-heavy fertilisers, as this encourages lush leafy growth at the expense of flower and fruit production.
Pinch out the growing tips of young chilli plants when they reach 20–25 cm tall to encourage bushy, branching growth and a higher fruit yield. In warmer Australian climates where chillies can be grown as short-lived perennials, cut plants back by one-third to one-half in late autumn or early spring to rejuvenate growth and extend productivity into a second season.
Chillies are most commonly grown from seed, sown 6–8 weeks before the last frost date in seed-raising mix at a soil temperature of 25–30°C, which can be achieved by placing trays on a heat mat or in a warm, bright position indoors. Seeds typically germinate within 10–21 days, and seedlings can be transplanted into the garden or larger pots once they have developed their second set of true leaves and outdoor temperatures are consistently warm.
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