Classic cottage garden shrub. Colour depends on soil pH — blue in acid, pink in alkaline. Stunning cut flowers....
In Australian gardens, hydrangeas are commonly affected by powdery mildew during humid summers and two-spotted mite in hot, dry spells — treat both with a neem oil spray applied in the cool of the morning every seven to ten days. Aphid clusters on new shoots can be dislodged with a strong jet of water or controlled with an organic insecticidal soap solution. Snails and slugs target soft new growth, particularly in wetter months; use iron-based snail pellets or crushed eggshell barriers around the base of plants as organic deterrents.
Feed hydrangeas in early spring (September) with a slow-release complete fertiliser such as a camellia and azalea blend, which suits their preference for slightly acidic conditions. Follow up with fortnightly liquid applications of a high-potassium fertiliser like liquid potash or seaweed-based tonics from bud formation through to late summer to maximise bloom size and colour intensity.
In cool and temperate Australian regions, prune mophead hydrangeas in late winter to early spring (August–September), removing only the dead flower heads back to the first healthy pair of buds, as blooms form on old wood and hard pruning sacrifices the season's flowers. For renovating an overgrown or unproductive shrub, remove up to one-third of the oldest stems entirely at the base each year to encourage vigorous new flowering growth without sacrificing the whole display.
Hydrangeas are most reliably propagated from softwood cuttings taken in late spring to early summer (October–December), selecting non-flowering shoots of around 10–15 cm, removing lower leaves, and striking them in a moist mix of perlite and potting mix in a warm, shaded spot. Cuttings typically root within four to six weeks and can be potted on or planted out the following autumn once a strong root system has developed.
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