Iconic Mediterranean shrub with fragrant silvery foliage and purple flowers. Excellent for edging and hedging....
Lavender is remarkably pest-resistant in Australian gardens, though aphids may occasionally cluster on new growth and can be controlled with a strong jet of water or an organic neem oil spray. The most serious threat is root rot caused by Phytophthora fungi, almost always triggered by waterlogged soils — prevention through excellent drainage and avoiding overwatering is the most effective control. Lavender shab, a fungal disease causing sudden dieback, can occur in humid conditions; remove and dispose of affected stems promptly and improve air circulation by pruning.
Feed lavender once in early spring with a slow-release, low-phosphorus fertiliser such as a native or Mediterranean blend to support flowering without excessive leafy growth. A light top-dressing of compost or a diluted liquid seaweed solution in early autumn helps strengthen roots heading into winter without stimulating soft, frost-vulnerable new growth.
Prune lavender twice yearly — once lightly after the first flush of flowering in early summer to encourage a second flush, then more firmly in late summer or early autumn, cutting back by up to one-third to maintain a tight, mounding shape and prevent woody, open-centred plants. Never cut back into old, grey, leafless wood, as lavender will not regenerate from bare stems; always ensure some green foliage remains on every pruned stem.
Lavender is most reliably propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late summer to early autumn — select 8–10 cm non-flowering shoots, strip the lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and insert into a free-draining propagating mix of perlite and coarse sand. Seeds are possible but slow and variable in quality, so cuttings are strongly preferred for maintaining true-to-type plants with consistent fragrance and flower colour.
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